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Granpa's Life
(Florida)
EXTRACT
From
A True Story of Some Eventful Years in
Granpa's Life
By
Henry E. Perrine
Land was granted by Congress in 1838 to Dr. Henry Perrine (a native of New
Brunswick, N.J., and later, in 1827, Consul at Campeche, Yucatan) for a
township, with a view of encouragement in his enterprise; the introduction
of useful tropical plants and seeds into the Territory of Florida,
including the tea plant. His choice had been Cape Florida, but owing to
the Seminole War he and his family (his wife, two daughters and a son of
thirteen years) were established at Indian Key, a supposed place of
safety.
Indian Key was a small Island about twenty miles south of Caps Sable and
four or five miles inside from the so-called Florida Reef.
THE ISLAND
The island comprised only twelve acres. Captain Houseman man was the
proprietor of the various cottages; shops, stores; hotel and warehouses,
while Mr. Charles Howe was the Post Master and Deputy Inspector of
customs. Three large wharfs stretched out from the northeastern side of
the island.
WATERY FOUNDATION
The foundation of the Perrine house was built in the water, thus the
cellar was useful, during high tide, as a bathing pool into which the
family descended through a trap door, with steps leading down.
Between the house and the wharf in front there was a connecting dark
passageway so built as to appear from without an being built of solid
masonry. In the early days of the Seminole war a small boat had been kept
in this place of concealment, providing means of escape in the event of a
night attack from the Indians.
FANCIED SECURITY
During the Seminole war the government established a station at Tea Table
Key (a diminutive island, one and one-half mile away toward the northeast
and near the lower end of another island, Upper Matacumbe) for invalid
soldiers. This fact gave to the inhabitants of Indian Key a false sense of
protection, and despite the intelligence received at one time from Colonel
Harney, who landed at Indian Key from a turtle schooner, that he had just
escaped from the terrible massacre of his soldiers by the Indians at
Caloosahatchie, on the river of that name on the went coast of Florida,
they still felt security as no one believed that the savages would dare to
venture twenty miles from the mainland to attack a settlement apparently
under the protection of U.S. soldiers.
TURTLE CRAWL
Small palmetto piles had been driven down into the marl all around the
"pool" under the houses which were spiked to the upper timbers, thus
obstructing all passages from the "pool" to the open sea, but leaving
sufficient space for the ingress and egress of the tide. This space was
called a turtle crawl in which the green, or loggerhead turtle, when
captured, would be kept for further disposal.
TYPE OF HOUSE
The house was three-storied, with a cupola and having an upper and lower
piazza across the front. Entrance to the cupola was made through a trap
door. There was no lath nor plaster, the rooms being all ceiled and lined
with yellow pine.
Henry, Dr. Perrine's son, and also author of this book, early learned to
row and skull a boat, which skill shortly was to be of inestimable value
to many individuals.
* * * * *
SEA FOWL
Henry, in company with Mr. Howe, in his boat which was handled by negro
slaves, takes an excursion to an Island about seven miles away, a great
nesting place for sea fowl. Approaching their destination they beheld
throngs of cormorants and pelicans, also cranes, which rose filling the
air with their discordant cries. The negroes captured a number of young
cormorants (which had not learned to fly) while Henry carried home a
crane, which was easily tamed and became an interesting pet.
LUCRATIVE INDUSTRY
Quite a number of men were engaged in the capture of green turtles, etc.,
for the northern markets. This was their principal source of livelihood.
In latter years the procuring of sponges superseded the turtle industry,
as being more profitable. "When the surface of the water is rough the
spongers are able to examine the bottom as their boat glides slowly along,
by using a small keg or box, in the bottom of which a pane of glass is
securely fixed. By pressing this into the water below the ripples, they
can see bottom almost as well as on a calm day ." (a glass-bottom boat)!
The collecting of rain water in cisterns built above ground, and in casks
was their only means of obtaining water to drink, or for laundry purposes.
During the dry season they frequently had to procure water from the
neighboring island, Lower Matacumbe, where they filled barrels from a sink
hole, about thirty yards back from the beach. The water had to be strained
previous to drinking to rid it of embryo mosquitoes.
For the purpose of developing a nursery for useful tropical plants, Mr.
Howe had his slaves prepare the soil near a sink hole, or natural well of
fresh water, on Lower Matacumbe. The labor was peculiarly difficult
inasmuch as the ground was permeated and interlaced in all directions with
the roots of the gumbo limbo tress and the various vines which had to be
cut on every hand with the grub hoe. "The gumbo limbo tree has wonderful
vitality; the posts cut from it will take root and throw out branches, so
that for fencing purposes there is no danger of decay. It is said that a
log of this tree, laying upon the ground, will throw out roots into the
ground and branches will grow from above."
THE MURRAY
In the channel, near Tea Table Key, Henry sees a slave catch a murray
(accent on last syllable). This is a salt water eel. Its bite is, like the
rattlesnake's poisonous. Its body is of mottled green, and hideous.
Whenever one is caught the fishing is spoiled in that locality for the
time being. Negroes consider this eel edible.
A WINGED BATTLE
Henry beholds a fish-hawk suddenly drop into the water, and as he rose
into the air carrying a large fish in his claws, a large bald eagle came
flying swiftly' from above. The hawk gave an angry scream, dropped the
fish and sped away, while the eagle with nearly lightning speed swooped
down and carried off his prey.
WATER SPOUT
Peculiar to this region is the water spout, which Henry sees during a rain
storm, high up in the heavens; beginning with a cloud from which descended
to the ocean a long, sinuous body like a snake, twisted and bent by the
wind as it sped along the surface of the water. After traveling about a
mile it struck Matacumbe when most of the body suddenly disappeared,
although the cloud preserved its cone-like appearance for a mile longer. A
perfect water spout!
UNUSUAL SCENE
On a water trip in search of oysters, Henry and party anchored at Sand
Key, a then nearly barren island about a mile from Cape Sable. He
describes the scene as one of rare beauty and interest, where, in the
water, on land and in flight, were multitudes of birds: pelicans, cranes,
flamingoes, gulls, frigate birds, cormorants and killdeers.
Dr. Perrine plants a few seeds here, at Sand Key; among others, date seeds
and "it is possible that some of the palm trees later grown there were the
offspring of his thoughtfulness."
After passing westward along the capes they shaped their course
northwardly, casting anchor off the mouth of a small stream, lined with
mangrove trees. The bottom of the bay seemed covered with oysters and the
tide being at half ebb, an oyster bank stood uncovered. They landed and
enjoyed a feast.
THE MASSACRE
In the small hours of August 7th, 1840, the family were awakened by the
Indian warwhoop, the discharge of guns and the falling of window glass.
Mrs. Perrine and the three children in their night garments, hastily went
through the trap door, down into the water beneath their house, secreting
themselves in the turtle crawl, where the water was "cold and even with
their necks." Dr. Perrine would not follow them thinking that by his
remaining behind, in the house, he could pacify the savages by speaking to
them in Spanish (as their grievance seemed to be only against Americans)
and telling them that he was a physician. This he did, from the upper
piazza, but of no avail. Their yelling ceased temporarily however, and
they went away. In the meantime Dr. Perrine drew a chest of seed across
the trap door concealing his family in the cellar from the savage eyes,
and ascended into the cupola, only to be found, later, by the bloodthirsty
Indians, who forced their way to him and finished their work with horrible
howls of satisfaction, heard by the trembling, fearful, grieving family
below.
Very soon afterward the smoke and terrible heat in the watery cellar,
acquainted the refugees of their burning home, which would cave in upon
them. They kept their faces to the water, plastered their heads with marl
and threw the water over them constantly to keep the air in motion, and to
cool it, in order that they might breathe, at the same time throwing marl
upon the burning planks above their heads.
Henry decided that he would rather be killed by the Indians than to be
burned to death, following his decision with his marvelous escape by
forcing aside a palmetto post, which made an opening only large enough for
him to barely go through. With a sorrowful glance backward toward his
mother and sisters, he passed through the turtle crawl out into the open
space. As though inspired, Mrs. Perrine then delved into the marl with her
fingers finally drawing out a few posts from the bottom, which enabled all
to pass from their prison into the water near the wharf. Emerging from the
hole at the end of the wharf they discovered a launch, its bow resting on
the shore. The boat belonged to six Indians who were (at that moment) in a
store near by preparing to bring their loot to this launch.
Henry, his mother and sisters were quick to enter the boats and although
only thirteen, skillfully handled the craft, with his sister's aid, until
they were out of rifle-shot distance. From this boat they were taken to
the schooner, Medium, where they found Mr. Howe and his family, also
Captain Houseman. Intelligence of the massacre was sent to Cape Florida,
about seventy miles up the coast, by a small boat, and shortly there came
to assist them, the U. S. S., Flirt, commanded by Lieut. McLaughlin. From
the Flirt they boarded the government steamer, Santee which took them to
St. Augustine, where they were supplied with adequate necessities; the
citizens calling upon them and offering generous assistance.
From St. Augustine, the Perrine family (trusting that by some happy
miracle Dr. Perrine was still alive) secured, through the kindness of Dr.
Edward Worrell, U. S. A., free passage on the water and on the railroad to
Auburn, N. Y., from which place they rode for "half-fare" in a carriage to
Palmyra, New York, their former home.
Many of the inhabitants of Indian Key, like the Perrines, effected
marvelous escape from the Indians, but the island was reduced to dust.
Many were brutally slain. Among those who escaped were "Mr. Henry
Goodyear, of the Goodyear Rubber Company."
The interior of the lighthouse at Cape Florida was burned while the keeper
was upon the summit of the highwall. He was rescued by flying a kite and
dropping the line where he could reach it, by which means he was able to
draw up a cord sufficiently strong to bear his weight. By fastening it at
the top he let himself down, hand over hand, until he reached the ground.
* * * * * *
TRIP TO THE WEST
While in New York Henry studies law and is admitted to the Bar. He later
concludes he should have chosen the study of medicine, instead, becomes
discouraged, and after trying various odd jobs and positions is induced by
uncle and cousins to join the procession of 1849 to California.
He sails in the Susan G. Owens, around Cape Horn. Full complement of the
ship was 169 passengers; passage fare in the cabin was $250 each. Before
entering the tropics they saw large schools of porpoises, which were
different from the "unwieldy monsters" seen near the Florida Keys. These
were only four or five feet long, leaping their entire length out of the
water. There were also visible Portugese Men-of-War, beautiful red, purple
and blue curiosities of the sea. They have "upon their backs a sort of
sail by means of which they are wafted over the waves. As the rays of
light strike them they are radiant at times, with rosy hues changing from
pink and violet to the deepest blue. (Here the author compares the scene
to that of Indian Key).
EXCERPTS FROM DIARY SEA
June 1st - "A number of passengers rowed over to the barque, Simlar, bound
for London, to send letters home.
June 2nd - "Running along now about four knots an hour. Spoke with
Norwegian barque, Antelope, coming from California, bound for Gottenburg.
Monotony of the voyage again broken by a word with the French barque,
Sophie Cesar; from the Mozambique, bound for the Harve-de-Grace. During a
heavy shower caught several casks of "delicious" drinking water."
June 3rd - "A shark, four and a half feet long, was caught during the
night and served for breakfast." Henry compares the vessel and the sea to
that mentioned in "The Ancient Mariner." . . . It is the Sabbath and Henry
retires to the quarter deck during the religious services, preferring
solitude and his thoughts to a "Service read by a grey-haired sinner who
deals out liquor during the week to the passengers, and who "took a horn
before service."
June 13th - "Saw many fish called Albicares, around the bow. They were in
pursuit of the flying fish which were constantly starting by thousands
from the water, and skimming over the surface like swallows."
June 14th - "Crossed the Equator. A species of shark called the dog-fish
was caught today."
June 16th - "We will pass the dreaded Cape St. Roque today. We now feel
the full force of the southeast trade winds and hope to reach Rio by a
week from tomorrow."
June 24th - "Instead of reaching Rio we are now becalmed about 30 miles
from Cape Frio, whose lighthouse is visible. Saw a bird called the marline
spike. It resembles the frigate bird of Florida."
June 25th - "I am really gazing upon the coast of South America, and right
before me is Brazil. As we near the entrance to the harbor we behold a
scene of grandeur and beauty. On the left is a peak about 900 feet high,
called the Sugar Loaf. One can imagine a loaf of sugar which had had its
base partially melted."
June 25th - "We enter this wondrously beautiful harbor and drop anchor.
The city of Rio Janeiro is about three miles farther in. The passengers
hired a boat to take them into the city. Boats are moving in every
direction, rowed by negro slaves. The roofs of all the buildings are
tiled, resembling long rows of flower-pots cut in half. Lengthwise, and
laid side-by-side and fitted into each other in reverse order. In the
markets are varieties of fruits, vegetables, fish, poultry, birds and
monkeys."
"Crowds of half-naked negro women are washing clothes at the open square.
Across the bay in a small steamer, the San Domingo. I saw men wearing iron
collars and chained to each other (a chain gang). Had to submit to the
imposition of 20 percent reduction on both gold and silver coin, in
exchange for bulky copper "dumps and half dumps."
The emperor complimented their behavior while they were in the city. "Mr.
Wise, of Virginia, is the consul at Brazil. NOTE: Probably Henry A. Wise,
afterwards Governor of Virginia when John Brown was hanged." * * * The
streets were very narrow; the Portugese were distinguished from the
Negroes only by their straight hair. The majority of the soldiers were
Negroes. In the churches there the candles burned in solid silver
candlesticks. The music was noteworthy. He remarks upon the brass bands.
"The loveliness of the feather flowers made here are indescribable." There
was marvelous diamond jewelry in the jewelry shops.
Henry mentions the sloop-of-war, Falmouth, from Boston, bound for
California. National salute of thirteen guns is answered by the
Brandywine. Sight of the American flag stirs his emotions. He visits a
picturesque plantation, located between two mountain cliffs, where "grew
in boundless profusion tropical fruits and flowers." The Fourth of July
was celebrated in Rio Janeiro. An extemporized military company paraded
under command of Lieut. Wheeler, "an officer lately returned from Mexico."
National airs were sung and the Declaration of Independence was read; guns
were fired and an impromptu oration was delivered by a Mr. Moreland, of
Cincinnati.
July 6th - "We are one-third the distance from Rio to the Horn. There is a
great change in the weather as we go farther South. It is nearly
mid-winter here. An overcoat feels comfortable. Cape pigeons and Cape hens
are flying around the ship, indicating severe weather at the Cape, as the
captain says they seldom ever come so far north."
August 7th - "South Pacific Ocean off the Patagonian Coast: The waves
towered far above the bulwarks. before passing Cape Horn we were followed
by a school of whales, several of which came within two hundred yards of
the ship. For a number of days the sun rose at about 8:30 and set
correspondingly early. Hours of darkness and damp, chilly weather; dead of
winter here, and a snow storm."
Henry is disappointed in the Southern Cross as the four stars, of which
the constellation is composed, "are not, says he, "at all suggestive of a
cross, nor do they equal in brilliancy many of those seen in northern
skies". He was impressed with the so-called Magellan clouds seen in the
Southern heavens on any clear and star-lit night. "Upon the Milky Way are
some apparently black clouds. The phenomenon is caused by a total absence
of stars or nebulae in those vast depths, and the resulting darkness is
made more apparent by the light from the innumerable stars surrounding the
spaces thus left vacant."
Sept. 3rd - The Chilian Coast is not, Henry thinks, comparable to the
Brazilian Coast, the harbor is "a miserable one. The city lies in
scattered directions. It is spring weather; peach trees are in bloom and
children sell flowers on the streets." The absence of the slave population
is noticeable as compared to Rio. The streets are wider, cleaner and more
beautiful. The men, both of mixed and pure blood, have straight features
and are handsome.
October 12th - "Today we arrived at the San Francisco Harbor. The gun
squad fired a national salute of thirteen guns, just outside the
entrance." Large flocks of pelicans and cormorants hovering, aroused in
Henry memories of Florida. "The passengers eagerly scanned the scenes
before them as we slowly sailed through the Golden Gate."
SAN FRANCISCO
Few of the buildings in San Francisco had architectural beauty, and the
majority of them were only tents. Henry sees a few adobe buildings with
tile roofs, "relics of Mexican occupation." In every direction wooden
buildings were in progress of erection. There were signs of business
activity everywhere. The streets were unpaved and muddy.
PRICES IB 1849
Carpenters were receiving $12 a day; they struck, asking for $16, but were
given $14, with promise of an increase. Skilled mechanics received from
$12 to $20 per day. Ordinary laborers earned $1 an hour. Lumber was $500
per thousand. From eight to fifteen percent a month was paid in advance
for the use of money with real security. Board was $30 a week or $8 per
day, etc., etc.
Quoted from "Annals of San Francisco", compiled and edited by Frank Soule,
and others:
"Nearly 40,000 immigrants landed In San Francisco in 1849. Three or four
thousand deserted from the many hundred ships lying in the bay. About
thirty thousand came across the plains. There were few women and children
at the close of that year. No such thing as a home could be found;
scarcely even a proper house could be seen. Only the great gambling
saloons, the hotels, restaurants and a few public buildings and stores,
had any pretensions to size, comfort or elegance. Horses, mules and oxen
forced a way through, across and over every obstruction in the streets and
men waded, and toiled after them. Gambling was carried on in the most
public manner in the hundreds of saloons which were thronged day and
night."
SACRAMENTO
With companions from Trenton, N. J., Henry takes passage on a schooner for
Sacramento, to locate somewhere in the mountains, near the place where
gold had first been discovered, for the purpose of finding his share.
After passing the straggling settlement of Benicia they encountered
darkness and a dense fog, driven on by a chilling wind which enveloped
them, dampening their spirits as well as their clothes. Henry finds
Sacramento, in many respects, like San Francisco, except "there were no
hills to surmount." The town was situated in the midst of a live oak
grove, handsomely laid out with wide streets running at right angles with
one another. With other gold seekers, they pitched their tents there, in
the grove, for the night, and the following day started for Culloma, the
place where gold was first discovered at Sutter's Mill. The country was
covered with "oak openings - succession of beautiful oak groves; destitute
of underbrush and although there were no fences, there was such an
appearance of regularity (as in orchards) that at each turn in the road
they expected to see a farm house. "Cooper describes such scenery in 'The
Bee Hunters'."
Henry meets an acquaintance from Buffalo, on horseback, roughly garbed,
who tells him that he has dug $3,000 worth of the "golden dust" and is
returning home.
INDIANS
The party passes several Digger Indians, "a miserably degraded race whose
food, according to report, consists of acorns, worms, and insects. These
Indians had just thrown one of their old men into the fire, merely because
they were weary of taking care of him.
CULLOMA
At Culloma was a deeply cut road and a settlement containing forty or
fifty buildings. The situation was upon the South Fork of the American
River. Woods rose on every hand. The river was spanned by a tall bridge,
one hundred or two hundred yards above the famed Sutters's Mill. "It was
where the tailrace of this mill was dug and the water let through, that
Marshall discovered the yellow particles, which were to be the means of
revolutionizing the trade and commerce of the world."
While walking along the edge of a shallow stream Henry mistook the yellow,
glittering scales of mica on the bottom for gold, but learned that gold
seeks a lower level and "modestly hides its face deep in the bosom of the
earth." Members of the party built a log hut, similar to the others there,
and to this hut they walked seven miles up the mountain.
About a quarter of a mile from the cabin was an Indian village, - "a
collection of rude wigwams made of bark. The men were nearly all away but
the squaws were frequently seen as they wandered around with large conical
baskets upon their backs. A few of the men and women were wearing
'mourning', a material composed of tar and charcoal, smeared upon the
middle of their noses, on each cheek, and upon their foreheads. Their
beauty is not enhanced by the frescoing."
CIMMABAR MINE
Henry is not successful as a gold digger, and decides to go to his uncle's
ranch below San Jose, where he is developing a cinnabar mine. While there
he was placed in charge of a mule-team "engaged in hauling the ore from
mine to Embarcadero, eight or nine miles." His uncle's house was situated
four miles south of San Jose (the Capitol) near the San Juan Bautista
hills, in which the cinnabar leads had been found. A hundred yards west of
the house was the small range of hills, and from their tops, looking still
towards the west, across another beautiful valley, was the "lofty coast of
range mountains, in which was the celebrated New Alamaden and Guada lupe
cinnabar, or quicksilver mines, said to be the most valuable in the world.
The plains were luxuriant with grass and carpeted with flowers. The
mustard plant, growing near the Townsend ranch, reached nearly the height
of the branches in which the 'fowls of the air' could easily have rested."
A red, rich ore was obtained but not a twentieth part sufficient to pay
the expenses, as over $10,000 had been invested in the enterprise.
Mr. Townsend's (Henry's uncle) enterprise is a failure, apparently. In
later years Henry reads in a California paper "An account of certain holes
that had been discovered in those very hills, supposed to have been worked
by Mexicans many years previous, and parties who followed up the traces of
cinnabar found therein had already gotten out several hundred tons of the
valuable ore from the same holes which our men had opened up in 1850."
Henry returns to the gold mine. He agreed to work his friend's share in
the Tuolumne River, in exchange for two-thirds of the amount he might
receive. (He emerged through worse than pioneer difficulties) to find that
the company had obtained between $34,000 and $35,000 worth of fine scale
gold, of which his share was only one 108th. He returns to San Francisco
to find "many brick buildings had been erected and the city had begun to
extend far into the bay. On the Plaza was a row of saloons, such as no
city in the United States could produce or equal in splendor. At many of
the gambling tables were female gamblers.
Henry expresses gratitude for his early training which imbues him with
wise judgment, protecting him from the "gambling places, etc.,
attractively presented."
Mail steamers arrived twice a month; postage per letter was forty cents.
SAN FRANCISCO FIRE
On the evening of May 23rd, 1851, a fire started, presumably in a paint
shop. Fed by a fiercely blowing wind, within a few hours the whole
business section was an entire mass of flames and in a brief period the
"whole region glowed, crackled and blazed, one immense fiery field. The
reflection from the sky of this conflagration was said to have been
visible at Monterey, nearly one hundred miles away. On all sides in the
doomed city was heard the fierce roar as of many storms that drowned the
shouts of men and the shrieks of women. The damage was moderately
estimated at $10,000,000 to $12,000,000. Seven weeks afterward a second
fire occurred, which loss was estimated at $3,000,000. "The veriest haunts
of crime and lurking places of wicked, black-hearted villains were visited
by this scourge."
Henry, with a partner, in established in the grocery business. He selects
Stockton, California for this work as Stockton was a shipping point for
the Southern mines and a team and packtrain center. He begins to enjoy a
measure of success, when he decides to return to the East on a visit.
Leaving San Francisco on the side-wheel steamer, Golden Gate, he sails via
Panama. "Panama" he writes: "is walled in, abounding in churches and
cathedrals, with extensive ruins in the heart of the city."
MULE-BACK RIDE ACROSS THE ISTHMUS
Henry rides a mule across the Isthmus, passing a Treasure Train, guarded
by dirty, barefoot soldiers, wearing soiled Panama hats and scant, dirty
clothing. He sees many boxes of "gold dust" protected only by two,
"half-naked apologies for soldiers." He meets the celebrated Texas Ranger,
Col. Jack Hayes, on a mule holding a child in his arms. He is robbed of
his trunk during the night, while a guest in the "so-called American
hotel, at Cruces, on the Chagres river" but discovers it "after a thorough
search in the bushes, etc.," under the house, or "hotel", hidden there by
the landlord, who probably thought it contained lumps of gold.
HIS MARRIAGE
Henry arrives in New York, and on March 2nd, 1853, he is married to Miss
Cornelia S. Hall, of Byron, New York. He returns to California, with his
bride, to primitive quarters, where "real happiness was experienced."
FLORIDA AGAIN
They remain in California until their daughter is about a year old when
Henry decides to again return to the eastern states. He finally becomes
established in business in Buffalo, New York, but suffers from the panic
of 1875, when he again turns his face toward southern Florida, where he
goes, with his two sons, to try to settle the township of land, granted to
his family by Congress. He was encouraged by the glowing accounts that he
read of the beauty, healthfulness, and productive soil of the country. He
reaches south Florida in October, 1876.
Among the changes since his residence at Indian Key, was a lighthouse on
Alligator Reef, five miles distant. They saw evidences of a recent
hurricane near Key West. Shortly before reaching the channel through the
Reef, they saw a hammer-head shark (a rare species) glide over the rocky
bottom. While at Key West Henry renews old acquaintances: Charles and
Edward Howe, formerly of Indian Key, were living there, also, Col.
Maloney, who had been a clerk in the Houseman store before the Indian
massacre. Col. Maloney exhibits to him beautiful specimens of large masses
of "snow-white finger coral, which had been procured from Carysfoot Reef."
KEY WEST HOME, 1876
Henry and sons are invited to visit Col. Maloney's home. The grounds were
surrounded by a barrel stave fence; no grass but an abundance of
calcareous rock. The "garden presented an untidy appearance." Growing
there were many kinds of fruit trees: sugar apple, Sour-sop, sapadilla,
guava, shaddock, alligator pear, pineapple, orange, lemon, lime, date-palm
and banana. The hurricane had stripped nearly every tree of its fruit.
There were two handsome tame deer on the place. The entire city had a
shiftless appearance.
TRICHIURUS LEPTURUS
While trolling in the water, enroute to Indian Key, one day, they caught a
scaleless fish which was only three inches in width; shole like "burnished
silver", and 42 inches long. Professor Charles Linden pronounced it to be
the "silvery, hair-tailed or scabbard fish or the trichiurus lepturus."
OLD EPITAPH
While on a visit at Indian Key, Henry observes an epitaph. In front of the
spot where once stood Capt. Houseman's house, lay a marble slab with these
words inscribed thereon:
HERE
Lieth The Body of
Captain Jacob Houseman
Formerly of Staten Island, State of New York
Proprietor of the Island
Who Died By an Accident
May 1st, 1841
Aged 41 years and eleven Months.
To His Friends He Was Sincere,
To His Enemies He Was Kind
To All Men Faithful.
This Monument Is Erected By His Most Disconsolate Though
Affectionate Wife,
Elizabeth Ann Houseman
Sic transit gloria mundi.
Henry and his sons find the "Bleeding-Tooth" shells clinging to the rocks
on the southern portion of the Key. They also find a few Sisal Hemp plants
on the island, offsprings of the plants brought from Yucatan by Dr.
Perrine.
While wandering over this memorable islands Henry discovers the cistern in
which the sailor, Beiglett, and young Sturdy were concealed when the
Indians fired the warehouse above them. A dwelling house was erected over
it. Leaving there and passing Upper Matacumbe they saw a number of
buildings washed off their foundations by the hurricane.
EXCERPT FROM LETTER
November 5th, 1876, -- Off Caesar's Creek, An Opening Into Biscayne,
Between the Upper End of Key Largo and Elliott's Key. "Set sail about
three o'clock a.m. Nearing the opening between the Keys we pass a sponge
corral in which sponges are placed after they are dead, to be washed clean
by the ebb and flow of the tide. Now we are fairly upon the magnificent
Biscayne Bay. Slowly nearing the long looked-for landing place. We can
just catch a glimpse of the roof of Addison's house through the tress.
Anchor is dropped nearly half a mile from shore and a sail boat is on the
way to us.
"Mr. Addison, who has lived here for the past fifteen years, met us
cordially. His house consists of a very ordinary log kitchen, about 15
feet square, with a verandah on the north side of it and a rough board
building about the same size, containing one room, about ten feet in front
between the kitchen and the bay. His wife is tall, thin, with a kindly
face, showing evidence of culture and refinement."
Henry remarks upon the balmy Florida air and luxuriant, semi-tropical
growth, but is disheartened to find rock near the surface of the soil
everywhere, and scrub palmetto in every direction, leaving no "place for a
plow." He is encouraged, however, by the discovery of a road cut through a
part of the hammock, at the end of which was an open space of about two
acres, which had been cleared (he learned) by the expenditure of a vast
amount of toil, and which showed a dark and apparently rich loam. The lime
trees were in bloom, but some of them had been injured by the hurricane.
Morning-glory vines were prolific. They came upon a large banana field,
and upon growing sweet potatoes. An exploration through the hammock
brought them to the open pines facing the bay. Between the woods and the
bay lay a space of salt marsh, about 120 yards wide; the line of the shore
making a curve inward from the point in front of the hammock. From the
point in front of the hammock issue two streams of fresh water from among
the mangroves. At one of these, the spongers who frequent the bay, in
search of sponges, often obtain their supply of drinking water. At various
places near "our first place of landing", springs of fresh water well up
through the salt water, so that "it is possible by placing an open cask in
the sand, with the top above the surface of the bay, to obtain the best of
all beverages, uncontaminated by the surrounding brine. This water comes
through underground crevices in the rock from the Everglades."
In their attempt to erect a tent they found it difficult to get holding
ground for their wooden tent pins, owing to the oolitic rock strewn
everywhere.
FIRST CROP
Henry plants corn, which is destroyed by the "bud worm." Peach pits prove
a failure. He discovers a bear track (resembling a human foot) on his
melon beds, and panther tracks on his citrus seed beds. Within a short
period they had plenty of vegetables, but potatoes had been attacked by
ants.
FISH ABUNDANT
During three or four months of the year, Henry found that they could
reach; "dry-shod", through the beautiful prairie back of Addison's house,
a sink hole filled with clear water, "margined with lily pads" and teeming
with fish of different variety; numerous bream, black bass (called trout)
which were easily caught. And near Henry's garden spot, in the edge of the
dense hammocks were deep rock holes in which "swarmed" bullheads and
bream, and "many more black bass inhabited a larger depression beyond."
Over the smooth surface of the bay they see quantities of bubbles, after
which they watch Mr. Addison cast his net and catch, with "one throw",
fifty fine mullets (an excellent pan fish) and "probably the most abundant
of any kind in these waters." The mullet's dreaded enemy, the barracouta,
seems constantly lying in wait for it. On one occasion, "so great was the
number and so great the attacks of their enemies, that the sound caused by
their leaping was like the rush of waves upon the beach, and its
appearance was similar to a crest of an incoming wave."
The barracouta is a beautiful fish, having a long and nearly round body, a
long, sharp-pointed head and sharp teeth, which enables it to cut through
an ordinary seine and also to cut a heavy fish line when attached directly
to the hook. They lie apparently motionless near the bottom, but almost
instantaneously dart away like an arrow from a bow when disturbed. The
flesh is white and is excellent food.
NIGHT FISHING
They practiced catching large fish at night; two men would go in a boat at
the beginning of high tide; one would stand in the bow with a long pole,
the end of which was inserted in the socket of a fish spear, called the
grains. To this spear is attached a long, stout line having the other end
fastened to the boat. Just behind the man in the bow is a short pole,
placed in the mast hole, on the upper and of which is an arm extending
beyond the side of the boat and upon which an iron grating rests, filled
with bits of burning pitchpine. The light from the fire attracts the
attention of the fish, as the boat is slowly pushed by the aid of the
pole, by the man in the stern, and while the fish are gazing at the blaze
they are more easily captured than by daylight.
FROST IN NOVEMBER
"Although we were in a region below 26 degrees N. latitude, there were
heavy frosts. The thermometer showed 33 degrees. The suffering from cold
was keen. Hundreds of fish were killed in the bay." The banana plants were
damaged. The beneficial results were relief from mosquitoes and the
destruction of the morning-glory vines.
INDIAN TRADERS
In late November they bought venison from Jumping Johnny and Cypress Tom,
who came from the north trail. The Indians' appearances were villainous;
each wore a plaid, woolen shawl, turban effect, around his head. One wore
no trousers, only a long shirt. They carried powder horns, shot and other
pouches. Knives suspended from their waists and shoulders. Jumping Johnny
had been banished from Dade County for stealing. Old Tigertail, and
others, paid to keep him out of prison. These Indians pretended to
understand but little English.
Henry's young son, Harry, in company with "Will Rogers", mistake the
puffing sound of the porpoise, and the barking, or hoarse cry of a crane,
for bear cubs.
A fresh breeze in January washes ashore thousands of Portugese Men-of-War,
also a large number of small blue nautilus shells. "It is probable that
the ancients procured from these shells the celebrated Tyrian purple; for
the occupant of the shell secretes a liquid of a deep purple color. After
such a breeze there was nearly always found a few sea beans upon the
beach. These so-called beans are not a product of the sea. They are said
to be growing on some of the West India islands and are washed down by
mountain torrents to the sea, and then by the force of the winds and ocean
currents finally reach the Florida Keys and the beach of the mainland as
far north as Georgia. The bean is nearly round, about three-fourth of an
inch in diameter and three-eighth of an inch thick. The sides have a rough
surface varying in color from a light to a very dark brown, the rim being
smooth and nearly black. The shell is very hard and is susceptible to a
high polish. These are often fitted with a gold band and sold for watch
charms.
SOLDIERS' KEY
Henry goes to Soldiers' Key, a small island directly opposite his place,
to secure crawfish and conchs for bait, and to find micramock shells.
South of Soldiers' Key are three small islands called Ragged Keys, - one
about a mile long, named Sander's Key, which is separated from Elliott's
Key by a space of about fifty yards, termed Sander's Cut, through which
the tide swiftly passes at its ebb or flow. Each side of the cut is
densely lined with mangrove bushes.
CAPE FLORIDA
Sighting the smoke of a steamer at Cape Florida, they visit the Cape, and
find the steamer to be the government Lighthouse Inspecting and Supply
Boat. While at Cape Florida they caught a large snapper and a heavy
striped sheepshead. A guide takes the party up to the lantern in the
lighthouse and upon the narrow balcony surrounding it. He tells them that
a great number of birds are killed at night by flying against the thick
glass surrounding the light. Mr. Frow was the lighthouse keeper.
They are towed to Henry's place, the "Hunting Grounds". Enroute, they
reach Bahia Honda channel (called there, Bay of Hundy) said to be a
treacherous place in the event of storms.
INDIAN MOUND
Henry Discovers an Indian mound a short distance back in the hammock, near
his place. The mound consisted of a pile of the rough oolitic rocks and
soil, about ten or fifteen feet in diameter and about four feet in height.
A gumbo limbo tree, two and one-half feet in diameter, was growing upon
the top. Pick and spade were utilized, uncovering skulls and bones of both
children and adults, buried with their faces downward and with the tops
toward the center of the mound. Henry secures two good specimens of
skulls; intending to present them to the academy of Natural Science, in
Buffalo, but forgot to pack them when leaving.
RATTLESNAKE UNRESISTING
Coming through a banana field they see and kill a seven foot rattlesnake,
almost "as large around as a boa constrictor." They cut off ten rattles.
The snake was stretched his full length and "lazily lifted his head" when
they came toward him but offered no resistance.
PRODUCE AUCTIONED
The only market at Key West was uncertain as all produce was sold at
auction upon arrival, and good and bad prices played at see-saw. Henry
realizes that it would require many years there of "semi-savage life" ere
he could hope to profit from his labors. This, together with the fact that
he could obtain no cooperation from others in supplying the necessary
means for developing the property, precipitated his decision to return to
the northeastern states, and finally to Palmyra, Now York.
HOMEWARD
They boarded the sloop yacht belonging to Mr. Brickel, of "Maama"; spent
the night on Indian Key; saw a watermelon patch on the island of Vitae
Key, where, "in the end of every one was a small hole, perhaps an inch and
a half in diameter and the interior of each had been cleanly scooped out
by raccoons." During this trip they also saw a curious denizen of the sea:
the sea-pigeon. So called on account of its resemblance, both in color and
shape, to a wild pigeon with outspread wings, as it floated upon or near
the surface of the water.
Henry Perrine was compelled to share his stateroom with a young man, of
nice appearance, but who drank constantly from a "flask of liquor" and
finally, becoming insane, suddenly died (probably from fright, as the
captain had threatened to throw him overboard) and was buried, with proper
service, at sea. Before passing on, he became sane again and gave his
grandfather's address (in New York) to Henry Perrine, who notified the
grandparent of the tragedy.
TRIBUTE TO HIS MOTHER
Upon hearing of the death of his mother, Henry Perrine remarks: "Her
children knew of her sterling worth, her untiring industry and struggles
to give us a fair education. * * * She earnestly desired our spiritual as
well as our temporal well-being, and it was the thought of her, and of my
sister - far away, which made me firm in my endeavor to do right when I
was a young man upon the distant Pacific Coast."
* * * *
Extract made by
Elizabeth O'C. Ledbetter
Text from: Library of
Congress, Manuscript Division, WPA Federal Writers' Project Collection
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