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KEYSTONE - VILLA
ALEXANDRIA - Early Jacksonville.
(Florida)
Mrs. Shields, the Widow of the Rev. Van
Winder Shields for many years the beloved rector of St. Johns Episcopal
Church, is now in failing health and had to cancel two previous
appointments before feeling able to see the writer at 2 o'clock in the
afternoon of this pleasant March day.
"I do not rise until noon, and even then the day seems long," she said
plaintively. "My eyesight is very poor; I have not been able to read
anything except the broad headlines of the newspapers for some time, and
it is a great disadvantage, as I used to enjoy reading so much. My son
comes in the evenings and reads to me, also my daughter and granddaughter
read the papers and magazines, so I keep in touch with what is going on in
the world and locally.
"My information may not be of much value, but I'll be glad to give you
what I have known of Jacksonville for the past fifty years.
"Mr. Shields and I came with our small family in 1889 from New Bern, North
Carolina. I am sorry to tell you how much I disliked the change. The
parish at New Bern had been long established; the church was beautiful,
the rectory roomy and comfortable, and in such a lovely setting. Of
course, the altitude is much higher there, the air was so pure and cool,
lovely old oak and elm trees all around the place, and homes of the old
families. In contrast, Jacksonville seemed so barren, with its sandy
streets and no pavements. There is nothing in me of the pioneer spirit;
the prospect was discouraging.
"Right next to the parish house at New Bern, Governor Tryon erected the
magnificent mansion which caused such an upheaval in North Carolina
politics, resulting later in his impeachment and removal from his high
office.
"When the building was vacated, it became the rectory school, for which
purpose it was well adapted. After we left there, it burned, only one long
retaining wall remaining intact. Considered a menace to adjoining
property, an attempt was made to forcibly tear it down, but the fire had
so glazed and welded the bricks together that it was impossible to make
any inroads, and the structure still stands, a silent reminder of North
Carolina's stormy governor.
"Mr. Shields was very anxious to succeed in his new charge, wanted to
accomplish big things in Jacksonville; I wanted also to help and be a part
of his accomplishments, so I started in to adapt myself to the change from
the old settlement to the new, and the people of Jacksonville were so
wonderful to us, and especially to me, that new friends and new interests
replaced the old, and I soon forgot my homesickness.
"Keystone" was at its lovliest when we first came. Mrs. Cummings came to
St. Johns and met Mr. Shields and myself. She was such a fine, devout
woman, we became very fond of her. Her husband turned out to be a very
unworthy man, but her disappointment never seemed to disturb her own calm
or her faith in other people.
"Mrs. Cummings was the daughter of, Asa Packer, promoter and developer of
the Lehigh Valley Railroad, of Pennsylvania, and inherited a very large
fortune. 'Keystone' had been developed as a winter home. Their summer
residence was at Mauchunk, Pennsylvania where Mr. Shields and I also
visited Mrs. Cummings on two occasions.
"Mr. Platt, the English caretaker at 'Keystone', seemed to be a perfect
wizard with the flowers and gardens. Mrs. Cummings was especially fond of
roses, and there were great beds of both red and white 'American
Beauties'. When she went north in the spring, Mr. Platt had orders to
supply me with roses, and each week he brought them in to me - great
armfuls. A few stalks remain of the old plantings.
"There was an artesian well of splendid water on the place. There were a
number of buildings besides the residence and the caretaker's house at the
gate. There were large stables, a carpenter shop, a separate laundry
building, also the bowling alley, with a front room for playing cards.
"The swimming pool was a great attraction, as well as the tennis courts,
with nearby a dance pavilion. The children of St. Johns used to have many
good times there - picnics, dances, and other outings. They were always
welcomed by their gracious hostess.
"At the time of the great fire of 1901, St. Johns Church, the rectory, and
most of our personal belongings were swept away. Mrs. Cummings came to our
rescue, taking us down to 'Keystone' where we lived for six months,
returning again to Jacksonville in the month of September.
"At this time, Mr. Platt would place kerosene lanterns all around to light
up the grounds, but in the house we burned candles.
"The destruction of Jacksonville had disrupted the sewerage, and everybody
was ill. We all had malaria and were dreadfully sick all summer. For many
years I could not bear to go to 'Keystone' as the memory of the terrible
holocaust and our long illness afterwards was hard to efface.
"During our six months at 'Keystone' Mrs. Cummings discussed with my
husband her plan to leave the property to the Church for a children's
home, and asked his advice as to whether she should in her will designate
the Episcopal Diocese or St. Johns Church parish as the beneficiary.
"My husband suggested St. Johns, and asked that she designate it as a home
for the better class of boys, as there was enough done and sometimes too
much for the indigent children, while there was no help for the
advancement of the more promising. Also, he felt girls were in most cases
better provided for by different charities than boys. And so, at Mrs.
Cummings' death, the property came to St. Johns Church as the 'Keystone
Home for Boys'.
"Rev. Mr. Ambler W. Blackford was placed in charge. He had received
splendid training for this particular work under his father, who for forty
years was principal of the Episcopal High School in Alexandria, Virginia.
He has done wonderful work and during his regime three fine young
clergyman have developed from the boys in his charge, whose education he
supervises.
"The endowment left by Mrs. Cummings was at first entirely sufficient for
the upkeep of 'Keystone' but now it is not, and Rev. and Mrs. Blackford
have a hard time making this income stretch sufficiently to cover the
requirements of the eleven boys now in residence there.
"Added to his many accomplishments, Mrs Blackford is an expert with
flowers, especially calla lilies, which he has developed to a high state
of beauty and hardiness. The vase on the mantel in the dining room bears a
dozen beauties he brought in to me today.
"Well, back to early days again. After
a short while, we came to love the people of Jacksonville, and they
certainly loved us and never failed to show it.
"There were many old families, who, with their descendants, had been here
since the incorporation of the town. And what should we not owe these
pioneers? They who built up their church, bringing up their children amid
hardship and few facilities, but with the steadfast faith to carry on?
"My younger son has married a western girl, whose grandparents were '49ers
of Colorado, and I am astounded at the stories they have handed down to
their children of their early struggles in the west; the ever-present
scourge of savage Indians; the pitiful young mother giving birth to a
still-born baby the same day her first child died of a lingering fever.
But they survived, how I cannot understand; I never could have done it,
because, as I said, I have not a pioneer spirit.
"But we had good times, even in the early 1890's. Everyone was so kind and
friendly. I remember the 'Patriarchs' - a dancing club of young people.
Sometimes they went to the Yacht Club at the foot of Market Street, and
again to the Seminole Club for their dance parties.
"I used to chaperone my two older sons - chaperones were considered proper
for young people's affairs then, although they are completely 'out' now.
The hired an orchestra; sometimes a stringed band would furnish the music.
Judge Young used to come, and Governor Fleming was a frequent visitor to
the 'Patriarchs' and also to the Yacht Club dances, and they would dance
and dance. I think it is fun for the older people to take such interest
and enjoy themselves.
"During the 1901 fire the Yacht Club was burned, and another location was
selected on the river opposite where the market now is, which was later
disposed of and the club established in its present location.
"After the fire the only building of consequence left standing in the
downtown section was the old Armory at Forsyth and Market Streets. The
first 'Patriarchs' dance was held there. It was a fancy dress ball, and
the prize costume was that of Red Ridinghood worn by a local young lady.
"All the dances started promptly at 9 o'clock, and at midnight closed with
'Home Sweet Home.'
"There were never any refreshments. I remember in the early 1900's, while
the men would go downstairs to the bar for drinks, the girls had nothing,
not even lemonade, and the girls rebelled. One was Blanche Baker, who said
she would never come to another dance unless the girls were provided with
refreshments, too. Two or three held out with her, but the young men were
adamant. Finally they were told it was pretty ugly of them to offer such
persistent opposition, and they gave in. After that, the 'Patriarchs' -
girls and all, as well as the chaperones - had 'refreshments.'
"Yes, I remember 'Villa Alexandria' very well. It was in its heyday when I
first came to Jacksonville, and was a most beautiful place. Now, all that
remains as a reminder is the double row of Camphor trees - Mrs. Mitchell
thought camphor in time would be produced commercially in Florida, the
trees were so prolific and grew so readily - and she said - 'David will
always have plenty of money to carry on this venture.' Poor David! Little
did anyone think of the failure of the large fortune which should have
come to him.
"And the old fountain, too, is still there.
"I remember one hot day in the summer, the Dells' - our neighbors and I
were asked down to Villa Alexandria for luncheon. The Dells had horses and
a nice carriage, and we arrived in state after a long warm journey.
"Mrs. Mitchell, who was a small dark woman, was on the porch to receive
us, all dressed in beautiful white silk, with young David, also in white,
by her side to do the honors.
"After chatting a while, we were invited into the beautiful dining room,
with the rare furnishings which characterized the house throughout; the
imported paintings in panels on the walls, the frescoed ceilings, the
mahogany dining table with its lace cloth, and in the center was an
alcohol lamp with a steaming kettle for hot tea on this blistering day!
"Mrs. Mitchell did china painting as a hobby, having a kiln in the yard
where she fired her pieces. On the table this day were a set of six
teacups and saucers, painted in brilliant colors by her own hand, with
gold edges and gold painted handles. She apologized for the heavy coat of
gold, saying: 'I could not seem to make the ordinary gold stick, so I
melted up five or six ten dollar gold pieces and used that on these cups
and saucers.'
"It was a treat to walk over the beautifully landscaped grounds, with
imported trees, flowers and shrubs. Over the end of the porch was the most
beautiful vine I have ever seen. It was like the 'love vine' of Mexico
with its red heart-shaped flowers, except the flowers on this vine were
snow-white.
"And young David Mitchell, Mrs. Mitchell's grandson, had everything on the
face of the earth that his doting grandmother could supply. And how he
tried to hold on to the old place when disaster enveloped the Mitchell
fortune! He slept in the old empty house, claiming he had title to it,
even after it had been legally transferred to others, and on one occasion
shot a real estate man who tried to take possession. On another occasion
it was reported Mr. Stockton had offered him $50,000, for a quitclaim
deed, but this he refused, claiming he was the sole owner.
"Another place below 'Keystone' was owned by the Matthews', also
Pennsylvania people. As soon as she had the place opened in the winter,
Mrs. Matthews used to send for me to spend the day, and the sooner had I
arrived after the long drive than she would say; 'Come, let's take a walk
through the woods and around the place; it's like Paradise!' I presume it
did seem like Paradise to her, in comparison with the cold of her northern
home, but I was not so keen on long tramps through the woods. I preferred
my Paradise in views from the front porch.
"Do you think we will get the government air-base?" she asked, in quick
shift of the conversation to the present. "I hope we do. Jacksonville is
the logical place for it.
"No, I do not believe the noise of overhead airplanes will be much of a
disturbance. We will just have to get used to it, they are bound to come
sooner or later.
"I remember one time we moved into a North Carolina section, where our
home was near a sawmill. My niece came to visit us, and she said; 'Auntie,
how in the world do you stand all that racket?' I told her it did bother
for a couple of days, but after the third day I never noticed it, and so
it will be with the numerous airplanes.
"We will get the Florida ship canal, too. I feel sure of it. Garry Buckman
and Walter Coachman, those two fine Floridians I have known almost since
they were born. They have got their teeth into this thing, and they'll
never be satisfied until the canal is assured.
"You know," she said reminiscently, "I am very fond of boys. I seem to get
along with them better than girls. Boys are so frank and out in the open
with everything. They may be as bad as the mischief, but they'll come
through with the truth. Girls are different. They always seem to be on the
defensive and conceal most of their thoughts. This was explained to me
once by a noted teacher who was a guest at our home for several days. He
said; 'Mrs. Shields, a woman has to be on the defensive side. At first,
she has to defend her young, then her actions and her reputation, so it is
natural for her not to be quite so frank and aboveboard as the male sex.'
"Speaking of the canal," she went back to her former subject, "You know
Florida has more than once been interested in a cross-state canal. I
remember once Governor Fleming had some very distinguished guests whom he
entertained at dinner and Mr. Shields and myself were invited. Next to me
sat General Goethals, an army man, a member of the party which was on a
tour of inspection of Florida, considering the possibility of constructing
a canal. He entertained me all evening with his enthusiastic
prognostications of the value of such a feature, the time it would save
ships in reaching points on the Gulf of Mexico and Central America,
instead of the long trip around the end of the Peninsula. He said the
Texas people were anxious for it, since it would bring them two days
nearer in Atlantic shipping service.
"By the way," Mrs. Shields said, "I just happened to remember one incident
that took place one evening shortly after our arrival in Jacksonville,
that came near resulting seriously.
"We had just sat down to supper. There was a knock on the door, and the
mulatto cook came running in, her face an ashen white, and blurted out
without ceremony, 'Dah's a strange man at the do' says us's house is afiah!"
"The 'strange young man' turned out to young Mr. C. D. Rinehart. The roof
was ablaze around the chimney of the rectory, an old rather run down
building a short distance from where the present St. Johns rectory stands.
Mr. Rinehart went with us to the attic, which had become a storehouse for
old unused furniture, and helped us pull away some old chairs from the
path of the flames, and with buckets of water and strenuous beating we
soon had the flames extinguished.
"So us's house lasted until the big fire swept it out of existence along
with the church and other buildings in that section."
The afternoon was now well past and members of the family were coming in
to supper, so the interview was brought to a close, with Mrs. Shields
volunteering any additional information that might be helpful.
March 13, 1939.
Mrs. Van Winder Shields
3427 Oak-st.
Jacksonville,
Florida
(Early resident)
Rose Shepherd, Writer
Text from: Library of
Congress, Manuscript Division, WPA Federal Writers' Project Collection
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